Build a native school garden

Start with planning

A local plant nursery will be an invaluable support, especially one that specialises in natives. It might also be interesting to visit a national park or bushland reserve to learn how native plants work together to survive, replicating a natural environment can be an exciting learning opportunity. Remember it is illegal to remove anything including plants from parks.

Before you start planting out your garden, even before you visit the nursery, make sure you spend time planning as a school community. Start with the three ‘Ps':

1. Purpose

Planting a garden is a great opportunity for learning, but this needs to be well planned. Keep in mind that kids will need close, active supervision and extra time if they will be involved in the planting process. Will there be a class dedicated to the maintenance of a garden once it's planted or will parents and teachers take responsibility? Is there an opportunity for teachers to include the garden in existing curriculum such as maths, local history or natural science?

Other questions that you need to answer include the following:

•  Is your native school garden being built for educational purposes or appearance, or both?

•  Do you want shade trees or trees that serve as a windbreak?

•  Is colour a consideration? Interesting seeds and barks?

•  Perhaps the main purpose of your garden will be to attract native birds and butterflies? Will it be a problem if your flowering plants attract bees?

2. People

Is there a local garden group that might be willing to offer time or advice? Even if you don't find any, individual parents might be happy to take a role in the planting phase or donate plants that are already thriving in their home garden. Many native grasses and ground covers are easy to separate and donate. Otherwise, members of the community might be willing to donate use of equipment, such as a bobcat or a post hole digger. Discovering you have access to certain equipment might change your expectations for the garden.

3. Place

Even if you're starting with a bare patch of ground, its orientation (north-facing would be ideal), slope and size will determine much of what you can do. Take note of factors such as shade vs exposure to the sun, frost potential, wind levels and rainfall. A soil test is not always necessary, but will ensure you know exactly what you're dealing with. When you head to your nursery for advice, they'll be able to recommend plants that suit your unique site.

Other aspects of the site to consider include:

•  Existing structures and plants that will affect your garden. Are there any buildings that block the sun during a certain time of the day? Is there a great view that could be framed by plants? Maybe you have an existing tree that could be the centre-piece to your garden. Some schools have used an existing storm water area and turned it into wetlands.

•  Many local councils have information on indigenous plants that will thrive in your area as well as common weeds and how to handle them too.

Planting

Soil – depending on the condition of your existing soil structure, it is often easiest to bring in soil and build the garden beds above the existing ground level. Despite being hardy, natives will thrive almost anywhere, they still need well-drained, healthy soil and will need to be watered at least during their establishment phase. While some species such as Banksias and Grevilleas need low phosphorous fertilizer, all native plants will benefit from soil conditioning. Stick with products labelled ‘Australian native plant food' or use organic fertilizer such as blood and bone, or pelletised chicken manure.

Plants – when you begin planting, start with biggest plants first then move to down in size. It is important to ensure that there is enough room for each plant once it is mature. It might be a good opportunity for students to measure and mark out the expected size of the mature plant and then work around that. Dig a hole bigger than needed for the roots of the plant, then get help from the kids to backfill and firm the soil as you go. Encourage deep rooting by giving a lot (a bucketful) of water when you first plant.

Mulch – this is important to retain soil moisture and to discourage weeds. You might like to stick with wood chips or bark from an Australian native, or local pebbles and river stones.

Maintenance

There is, unfortunately, no such thing as a ‘no maintenance garden' even when planting natives. The good news is that this is a great way to get the kids involved, even if they haven't been part of the planting process.

•  Watering – unless you include only plants that are indigenous to your local area (and so suited to your specific weather conditions), plants will still benefit from watering at least during the dryer months. Aim for infrequent, deep watering to encourage deep and strong rooting. Young trees will benefit from watering in their early years. You might want to install two drip-line irrigation systems on either side of a row of trees to ensure even watering.

•  Consider installing a rainwater tank or collecting grey water to water the garden, this is a great way to encourage sustainable use of water.

•  Fertilizer – add fertiliser during spring and autumn as you did during the planting phase.

•  Pruning – even natives will benefit from pruning. Aim to cut back by a third (yes, it will seem like a lot!) after the plants have flowered. This is also a good opportunity to have children record the size and shape of a plant before pruning, straight after and then a few weeks later. They'll be amazed by the regrowth.